F1D Challenge
An article by lt. Col. Bob Randolph,
as published in Indoor News and Views (INAV)
Getting Started in F1D
I have assumed that my direct and logical appeal in the previous issue was successful and some have decided to try FID. My suggestions will not only get you started but are intended to guide the novice to progress rapidly by doing it "my way".
I was prepared to start out with a discourse on the importance of wood selection. Suddenly the idea hit me that what makes FID so great is that everything is important. You need a good design, a well built model, a well adjusted model, good rubber, and capability to find the optimum motor to obtain really long flights. Any one factor that doesn't measure up, will reduce duration. Therefore your goal should be to improve all of the skills required. Some may question what skill has to do with rubber. The skill is being able to identify which of the rubber you possess is best and to keep an active look out for better'. For the 84 World Champs Stan Chilton furnished the US Team with three batches of Pirelli Rubber that was so superior that I would almost kill for more. Both of my World Records were set using good Dolby Tan.
You can't improve your FID craftsmanship without good tools. You must be able to obtain uniform readings of wood sizes and weights. I use two dice, ct reading scales that I made. One is 0-5/l000ths and one is 0-25/ 1000ths. I use a dial paper gauge that cost $12.50 about 30 years ago. Also, you absolutely need the best, rubber stripper available, I've tried them all and suggest the one made by Bob Oppegard (140 East Golden Lane, Circle Pines,Mn 55014). [Note** These strippers are no longer available]
I still use Ambroid thinned with Acetone. l don't have a set ratio but go by color and viscosity. I recall the advice from Bill Bigge to use only enough Ambroid that the wood fails before the glued joint after about two minutes. You must remember lo keep adding Acetone to your glue gun because it will evaporate after a week or two.
I strongly recommend that your first FID be a Proven superior design. This will not only save a lot of development time, but will allow you to expedite and concentrate on improving of your building and flying skills. One very common mistake is Lo try and hit the designers light weights with your first ship, resulting in a really weak model that won't last, through a test flight program. It's better to make everything 25-30% heavier and then keep reducing the weight on your 2nd, 3rd, and 4th copy before you match weights. You must keep detailed records of all parts if you expect to progress.
Set your own reasonable goals for certain model parts, Here are some of mine. I retire FID Wings when they hit .012 oz. I won't use a stab frame if it exceeds .0027 oz. I won't use a cabane that exceeds .0006 oz. nor wing posts (2 plus Boron) that exceed .0014 oz.
When I was assigned in Cleveland from 1965-1968, my home was only 12 miles from Micro-X. I spent hours sorting through Jerry's 4000 sheet stock, weighing and measuring to find exactly what I needed. I will admit that I'm very picky about wood. Because of my standards, abut 75% of what I mail order from both major suppliers, I do not use. However, I never send back any wood. For several years now I have been building mostly from my "reject" stockpile, so Jerry thinks I buy from Gitlow, and Lou thinks I buy from Jerry.
The secret of my success really is no secret. I love to fly indoor' and year after year make between 500-800 flights. I doubt, if anyone does more. I know the constant practice flying, adjusting, and steering helps. The word "practice' makes me, smile and I'll explain why. last year an old friend from my Cleveland days was vacationing in California and looked me up. Since I was all packed up and actually enroute to my flying site, I invited him and his wife and two kids to my practice site. After 2 or' 3 flights his 5 year old son said he didn't see why I had to practice since I knew how to fly. The kid was right, and perhaps we should call these "test sessions".
I don't know about you, but I find it. difficult to maintain a high level of indoor enthusiasm if I don't fly frequently. I suggest you look over every gym in your area and try to get the best on a regular basis. I should point out that stable air and a non-catchy ceiling are way more important than a high ceiling. Teachers and principals are usually fascinated at the lightness and technology that goes into an F1D. I got my site by accepting complete responsibility for my "assistants" and being meticulous about cleanliness locking up, and resetting the school alarm system. [ frequently hold talks arid flight demonstrations for classes. School officials know that I'm very serious in my efforts to advance the state of the art and are pleased to hear of my accomplishments. Last October I was lucky enough to take the new principal up in a club sailplane on an excellent thermal clay for a 3 hour flight, topping Mt. Sari Jacinto (next: to Palm Springs). I've never seen anyone enjoy a flight; more. The point, I'm trying to make is that you have to work at getting and keeping a good flying site.
My next article will probably cover test flying and the use of partial test motors to find the optimum motor. If you can't wait, you might look up my article in the September' 1991 issue of Model Aviation. Since you will need an F1D to test fly, start building and good luck.
