Steering Guide
By John Kagan
Steering is a critical skill for F1D, and extremely valuable for many other categories. However, I've seen many people struggle with it at all levels of competition - either missed / botched steers or people too intimidated to steer when required. Learning the skill will dramatically improve your chances for successful flights, save many models that might otherwise be lost or destroyed, and generally take a significant portion of the stress out of competition flying.
As many people are taking up F1D again or for the first time, I'd like to pass along some of the current steering tips and techniques I've managed to collect.
Equipment
Balloon: You need a balloon that provides enough "pull" to give adequate control at high altitudes. If the balloon lags behind you as you walk, it will never respond quickly enough to catch a model. I've seen the following types used successfully:
100gm meteorological balloon from Scientific Sales 800-788-5666 (about $8)
4' Qualatex balloon from a local party supply store (about $12)
3' latex balloon from a local gift shop, filled to the max (about $3)
Homemade 4' Mylar balloon by Ray Harlan (priceless)
Army surplus weather balloon, partly filled, from an Army Surplus store ($?)
I've used 5' balloons (about $25) in the past, but since they are heavier and larger they end up having about the same pull and response as smaller, lighter balloons. Plus, people freak about all the helium you use.
| Plug: The old-fashioned balloon tie-off method uses a wooden stick to roll up the balloon nozzle, with a rubber band wrap. Modern setups have a tubing coupler tied in the balloon neck with a removable plug (check out http://www.engineeringfindings.com/cat21/p61.pdf - about $4)
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Reel: Baitcast or casting reels work well. They provide enough capacity for braided line, stand up to the abuse of abrupt stops (clicking on the brake), and provide smooth action when reeling down a model.
Find a cheap, heavy model, preferable at a tag sale. If you buy an expensive, light alloy gem you'll most likely end up waving goodbye as your balloon carries it to the ceiling.
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Line: Braided nylon line provides excellent strength and little stretch, which give good sensitivity and feel for steering. It also comes in bright neon colors for visibility. A reasonable alternative is 10 to 15 pound monofilament fishing line.
Steering tube: One of the best recent innovations is the use of caulk backing as the material contacting the airplane. Essentially a long foam rod, the caulk backing provides a gently, non-snag surface that won't get tangled in VP mechanisms. It's made for jamming in concrete cracks before filling with caulk. You can get some from your local Home Depot or equivalent (about $3 for 25' or 30'). A good connection method is to fold the caulk backing over a loop of the line and secure with plastic tape.
Retrieval rig: Now that you've got a spiffy steering setup, don't mess it up by using it to retrieve stuck models. Murphy's Law guarantees the first time you use it (or someone borrows it) to retrieve, you'll end up with balloon fragments and a pile of line - and your next flight will be in desperate need of a steer. Instead, get an inexpensive Mylar balloon (I like the 4' star balloons best), and the cheapest reel available at Wal-Mart, pre-spooled with monofilament. Not only will you spare your steering rig, you'll also have a gentle, durable way to retrieve. You can rest the balloon on the ceiling, without worrying about popping it, and use the line to gently nudge your model off girders.
Preparation
Know the rules. They explicitly state how you can steer, and the situations in which you are allowed to steer. Paraphrased: "…from the front of the model" and "…to avoid collision with another model or primary structure of the building". This way you won't jeopardize your reputation with inappropriate steering, and you will have ammunition to justify your decision if questioned.
Know the interpretation of the rules for the site in which you are flying. The CD usually announces this at the beginning of the contest. For example, in a dome like Johnson City, where does the roof end and the wall begin? In the past the CD's have specified that you are allowed to steer once your model crosses the edge of the tennis court markings or the running track, so you need to know this.
Keep your balloon with you when you have a flight up, especially when flying in sites known for drift. It's amazing how quickly you can go from "hmmm, should I steer?" to "Ack! It's about to hit the wall!".
Put your balloon up early if you are heading into danger. Primarily done for the reason listed above, this also gives you a relaxed chance to confirm proper balloon height. In general you want the model to be in the middle of the caulk backing, so about 12' to 15' from the bottom of the balloon. You are allowed 1 helper in F1D - have them move far away from you and check your balloon height.
If you are in danger of colliding with another model, confer with the other flyer and quickly decide who will steer. The rules specify that the flying with the lower flight time has the responsibility to steer, but if there is any hesitancy or doubt take the initiative.
If you decide that you need to steer, announce your intentions to your timer. This will give him/her a chance to prepare the prop-stop watch.
Technique
Position yourself so that you will contact the model at the point farthest from the obstacle you are avoiding. If you miss, worst case, you will move the circle farther out rather than closer in to the obstacle.
Turn your body so that you are facing in the direction the model is flying - and keep turning as the model turns. You will be looking over your head as the model approaches. I've found this helps tremendously in accurately projecting the model's flight path.
Use exaggerated movements with correction to reposition the balloon. For example, if you want to move the balloon 2' forward, quickly walk 10' forward and then 8' back. Otherwise the balloon will still be plodding slowly along as your model fly by.
Plant the balloon in the model's path and let the model fly into it, rather than trying to move the balloon into the model. Position it so the balloon ends up on the left side of the motorstick. The prop will work itself right past the line.
Begin moving forward immediately. It's best to walk fast enough to "capture" the prop (prop-stop time is deducted, so there is no benefit / penalty). This will eliminate any controversy regarding control of climb or descent (see "know the rules"). It will also keep the model more securely on the line until you reach the point at which you intend to release the model. The only exception is during the initial part of the flight when there is a lot of torque on the prop - where "capturing" the prop may break the inner ribs. In this case you may want to let the prop turn while you reposition the model.
When you reach your target release point, gently pull the line down and move to the left. This disengages the top prop blade and moves the line out of the way. Very important: KEEP WALKING. The most common mistake is to stop walking when you are trying to release the model. If you stop, invariably the model will drop its tail, roll over, and wrap around the line. Now you'll never release it.
It is quite common to need a few attempts to release the model. As stated above, keep walking. Don't panic. If required, walk in a circle to the right until you are back where you want to release the model. Make sure the model is level, that you are moving at an appropriate pace, and try to release the model again.
Once the model is off the line, move the balloon away from the area. More than one modeler has pulled off an impressive steer, only to inadvertently walk the balloon right back through his/her model.
With a little bit of preparation and practice you too can enjoy the many benefits of steering. Just like building and trimming, steering is an important skill to add to your repertoire.
